3 Days in Mendoza
I might be biased, but Argentina is by far one of the most beautiful places I’ve had the privilege to visit. Mendoza in particular is truly stunning. If it’s not on your South America itinerary, it absolutely should be.
For us, getting to Mendoza from Washington, DC, requires three flights (totalling about 14 hours of flight time), a lot of coffee, and a checked bag that will invariably be cresting the weight limit for the final leg.
Pro tip: use Aerolineas Argentinas if you are going from Buenos Aires to Mendoza to ensure that A) you won’t be charged an arm and a leg for the bag at check in and B) your plane will actually take off on time.. Probably. In any case, the “how to get there” post is for another day.
Today I’m going to tell you my suggestions for how to spend three days in Mendoza without breaking the bank or overscheduling yourself. I’m a firm believer in giving yourself time to explore, so this itinerary also builds in a fair amount of unscheduled time.
Day 1: Arriving in Mendoza
If you are anything like me, you love a good city wander after spending way too much time on the plane. So on the first day, I highly recommend getting to your destination, taking a quick shower, and heading out into the city. Tired because you didn’t sleep on the plane? There are plenty of coffee shops dotted along the tree-lined streets.
One major perk of Mendoza is that it’s really easy to get around the city. An Uber is almost free, with most rides costing around $5-$6. There’s also a tram and buses available. If you are so inclined, you can book a “remis” for about $45-$60 for an entire day. As someone who lives near DC normally, $60 in an Uber would get me… About 20 minutes down the street during peak time. ;)
After you’ve grabbed a coffee; or an aperol spritz, depending on your mood and the time of day, stop by Plaza Italia. You’ll notice dramatic sculptures in the central fountain that are part of a major renovation completed in 2022 as a tribute to Dante Alighieri and his masterpiece, the Divine Comedy.
The installation is called "Todo por Amor" ("All for Love"), inspired by the closing lines of the Divine Comedy. It was created by sculptor Orlando Leytes and commissioned in conjunction with the Italian community in Mendoza to commemorate the 700th anniversary of Dante's death.
The fountain itself is designed as a sculptural journey through the three realms of the Divine Comedy:
Inferno (Hell) – represented by dramatic figures at the lower levels.
Purgatorio (Purgatory) – represented by souls ascending.
Paradiso (Paradise) – represented by a luminous figure at the top of the spiral ramp.
One of the most recognizable figures is Charon (Caronte), the mythological ferryman who carries souls across the river into Hell. In fact, shortly after the monument opened, city officials had to restore damage to Charon's sculpture after vandalism.
The central structure includes a spiral ramp that visitors can visually follow upward. This reflects Dante's symbolic journey:
Descending through the circles of Hell.
Climbing the mountain of Purgatory.
Rising toward Paradise and divine light.
After you’ve had your fill of Dante and his divine comedy, you’re luckily just a few minutes away from a whole plethora of places to have something to eat, drink, or explore. One of our favorite wineries, Corazon del Sol is a quick 4 minute walk via Avenida Peru.
They offer wine tastings from Tuesday-Saturday on a walk in basis, or you can make a reservation on their website. The wine is fantastic and the team there is highly knowledgeable about the Uco Valley where many of the grapes are grown. Though Mendoza is widely known for its malbecs, there are plenty of other options to try.
If you are a pink wine lover, I highly recommend trying their grenache rosé. It’s light, refreshing, and with none of the slightly-sour taste that rosés can be known for. One added bonus is that if you really love their wine, you can get a crate of 6 sent to your address in the US.
Wine and parks can really help you to work up an appetite, so you might be wondering which of Mendoza’s many restaurants to choose. This is a tough one as the food in Mendoza is incredible.
If you’ve traveled around any European capital or major cities, you’ve probably been disappointed by the quality of the food in some of the more ‘popular’ or touristy options. You will not have that problem here. However, if you are vegetarian or vegan, you might find it challenging to find something you can eat, so definitely check out the menu online before going. After all, Argentina is known for its steak and asado, so it should come as no surprise that plant-based options aren’t front and center.
Note: if you don’t have Whatsapp on your phone, make sure you download it. Many restaurants take reservations via Whatsapp. If you are hiring a driver or a tour guide, you can also expect to use Whatsapp to facilitate the arrangement.
Day 2: Living Local
Once you’ve gotten over the jetlag and food coma from your first day, you might want to get some exercise.
Head over to Parque General San Martin. Spanning almost 400 hectares, this is a great place to get your cardio in. You can also stop at any of the little food “trucks” along the path and get a coffee and alfajore. You know, to put back what you just burned off.
When we were visiting, we only explored a tiny portion of the park. But with the mountains as a backdrop and seemingly endless trails, it captured our attention pretty quickly. We also spied plenty of small groups and activities including but not limited to, hip hop dance, children’s rollerskating, and tour groups.
Once you’re done exploring the park, it’s time to head over to Godoy Cruz. This is a more “local” and family-oriented part of the city. It’s about 15 minutes by taxi or Uber. Here you’ll see school age children going to and from school, a ton of sweet shops, and plenty of long residential streets.
Not unlike other corners of the city, there are plenty of places to eat and a nice city center to peruse after your meal. If you are considering a move to Argentina and are looking for somewhere that has a slightly lower pace of life, be sure to spend a little extra time in Godoy Cruz.
After your lunch in Godoy Cruz, it’s time for a nap before dinner. Head back to your apartment or your hotel, grab some alfajores, and snooze.
For dinner? It’s time to head to Carolino.
This was one of our favorite spots in Mendoza. Definitely make sure you make a reservation ahead of time though, as it does fill up. And remember, no dinner before 9pm ;)
Carolino has a bit of a funky vibe but the food is spectacular. My husband had the squid ink risotto and it was top notch. Not like other restaurants here, the portions are significant. So unless you have plans for leftovers the next day, I would recommend skipping any appetizers and go straight to your main course.
If you are wondering what to do before your 9pm dinner, head over to Codigo Vinario. This is our favorite wine shop in the city and is managed by our friend Martino. He’s an expert in all things Argentinian wine and beyond. He can also give you some locals tips on where to go and what else to visit while you are in town.
Day 3: Beyond the City Limits and Back Again
It wouldn’t be a trip to Mendoza without stopping by a winery, right?
But, you’ve got to start the day off right. Walk outside, find a local cafe, and get your medialunas and coffee. We prefer to find a spot downtown by Plaza Independencia but there are plenty of great cafes to choose from.
I’d recommend keeping the rest of the morning free for explorations and gift shopping. There are many cute stores where you can get everything from mate to ceramic pinguinos to Messi gear in every conceivable format. Don’t forget the wine.
For lunch, you’re going to head to El Enemigo by Vigil. It’s about a 45 minute drive outside of the city and you will absolutely want to hire a driver (the aforementioned remis). If you need one, send me an email and I’ll share our contact with you.
We have not tried this via Uber as we had concerns about the return trip. Pretty much every winery is going to be approximately this far. Do be sure to book your driver in advance if possible. We also recommend making a reservation if you are planning to eat. If only drinking, you can show up and seat yourself with a fresh bottle.
Side note: Make sure you bring some form of ID with you as it will be checked before you are allowed to enter.
Side note 2: The drive looks a bit strange for the last quarter of a mile or so. Keep going, you will find the entrance.
After you’ve had your fill at El Enemigo, it’ll be time to head back to the city. And maybe time for another nap. Or a fernet and coca if you’re more in the mood to keep the party going.
For dinner, you’ll be going to El Asadito. This restaurant in downtown Mendoza came to us as a recommendation from our realtor there. They have amazing cocktails and a fantastic outdoor seating area. Not like the other spots mentioned here, the portions are significant and generally focused around a meat dish.
If you do happen to have space for a little more after dinner, Ferruccio Soppelsa is just a quick walk down the street. There, you can get a delicious affogato to round out your evening. Though if you have an early flight, you may want to skip the espresso and just choose from one of their ice creams or other deserts.
Planning Your Trip
I’ll write a more detailed post about getting to (and around Mendoza) but for now I’ll leave you with my top tips for a smooth trip.
Download Whatsapp if you haven’t done so already
Depending on your phone carrier, you may want to get an e-Sim. I personally use HolaFly and have had great luck with it
Try Santiago (SCL) instead of Buenos Aires (BAS) if you are flying from the US or Canada
Book your drivers and winery reservations ahead of time
Come with cash to exchange versus pulling pesos out of an ATM
Do you have questions about Mendoza or need any recommendations? Leave me a comment!
